Targetware: 2D Textures

The first step is to draw the base color, I always start with the lightest color and work my way up.

In the second step I create a new layer and paint the base camo scheme. Each of following steps will require you to create a NEW, TRANSPARENT layer. If I don't mention it explicitly, please assume you are to create a new layer for each step.

Next I draw the markings on a seperate layer...

The next step is to draw the panel lines in black (see my tip above about the jagged diagonal lines). Usually I apply this layer using the "Darken" or "Multiply" settings, and an opacity setting of between 10% and 25%, depending on the base color. You will have to experiment here to find the right level for your texture.

On the fifth step I simply duplicate the dark panel lines layer, and fill it with white, making sure to check off the "preserve transparency" option. Alternatively, you can invert the colors, which turns the lines white. Now I change the layer blend method to "Screen" or "Lighten" and change the opacity to between 5% and 15% (actual value will depend on your scheme's base colors). The last thing to do is to move the whole layer over 1 pixel left and 1 pixel down (up and right for the opposite side) to simulate 3D panel edges and rivets.

Yak note: this "fake 3D" effect works best with very high resolution textures, and a very subtle application. If the difference between light and dark lines is too obvious, it will detract from the overall appearance of your scheme, so apply with care.

In the next step I again duplicate the dark line layer, coloring the lines brownish as described above, and apply a gaussian blur filter with a value of around 3 to 6 pixels. I adjust the opacity percentage for the layer accordingly, until the inner areas of the panels look somewhat washed out (similar to what you might do on a plastic model with chalk).

To simulate different washouts of panels and highlighted rounded areas (as on the left of this example), I create a new layer and draw various panels with different percentages of white. Apply this layer with either "Screen" or "Lighten", using a max opacity of around 15%. You have to adjust the percentage this effect carefully! Too much highlighting will look very silly. When in doubt, use lower percentages.

The next step interacts with the one before, it is just the other way around, drawing darker panels and shadowed areas in different percentages. As before, use a low opacity setting and set the layer application method to "Multiply" or "Darken". Again, use this effect with caution, so it doesn't appear too obvious, the effect you want here is a subtle one.

The next step is to simulate the deeper lines around maintenance access doors and fuel panels and such. To achieve this, I again duplicate the dark panel lines layer, delete all lines that are not applicable, and set the opacity to around 35%. You can see the effect on the back-wheel maintenance door and the fuel door in the front as well as around the canopy in the top.

Now, with our tenth layer, we can draw in details such as landing lights, or as in this example, the darker area on the top right side.

If you want to, you can now draw dirt and grime from the exhaust on a seperate layer. Also washout effects can be applied at this point.

A good trick to get them is to duplicate the dark line layer again, enlarge the large areas, disturb them with a "squirl" or "distortion" filter, add some noise and use the "Motion Blur" filter in the direction you want.

As before, adjust the opacity of the layer, and the method, until you are happy with the results.

The last step for me usually is to add peeled and scratched paint, and oil, around maintenance panels and such to have it look a bit battle-weary. These are again drawn on a separate layer which lays above all others.